Emni Restaurant Crispy Popadoms opened proceedings and were accompanied by an unusual take on the usual dips - one of which tasted like the best brown sauce in the world (I mean that in a good way), tamarind I think.
Then the starters which were juicy minced lamb kebab, spicy lentil patties stuffed with dried fig and a striking potato basket that came with a side that looked like chantilly cream (but tasted delightful). Main courses were also charming, richly spiced, with a delicate heat and wonderful flavours: - Keralan prawns with yellow lentils, beans and carrots tossed with onion and tomato gravy - Kashmiri chicken with fresh chillies, ginger and black cardamom - Slow grilled long aubergines cooked in sun dried tomato and fresh chilli sauce - Smooth delicate-yellow lentils tempered with asafoetida, garlic, chilli and coriander This restaurant is far from the huge portions and blunt flavours of your local curry house (although there is definitely a place for these in my life and heart). Plates are presented with all the style of unpretentious nouvelle cuisine and delight the palette with their thoughtful flavouring and the meal was finished with room left for coffee. All in all a refreshing and unusual joy, especially at such a reasonable price - I shall definitely be going again. 4.5/5 - August 2008 Starters £4-6 Main £9-14 House wine £15(ish) Emni Restaurant 353 Upper Street Angel Islington London N1 0PD 020 7226 1166 www.emnirestaurant.com
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